April 16 (Punjab Khabarnama) : India is not only a diverse country in terms of religion and languages, but it also boasts an array of cuisines that are unique to the nation. While you may have heard of Mughlai food, Malabari dishes, and the Kashmiri wazwan, have you ever tried (or heard) about the indigenous dishes from the Western Ghats?
According to food experts, these preparations are a culinary treasure offering a unique and flavourful experience unlike any other cuisine. And what sets them apart is the use of locally sourced ingredients, often unique to the region, which impart distinct flavours and textures to the dishes.
The Western Ghats region is characterised by high rainfall, humidity, and unique seasonal shifts which “creates an extraordinary agroecological habitat”, said Mitra Walke, founder of Coast and Bloom restaurant, which is known for its specialty kokum dishes.
The variety
Communities in the Western Ghats region have a diverse diet that includes fruits, vegetables, and spices, as well as grains like millet and bamboo rice.
One of the key features of this region is its emphasis on simplicity and freshness. “Many traditional recipes are passed down through generations, ensuring that the essence of the dish remains intact. From hearty stews, dosas, and spicy curries to steamed snacks, vada pavs, and sweet delicacies, the range of dishes is vast and varied,” said Babendra Singh, chef of Temple Street, Delhi who is known for his expertise in regional cuisines.
Kokum, which stands out as a staple of Sindhudurg’s culinary history, known locally as Aamsul or Sola, finds its way into several dishes from the region owing to its tangy flavour — often replacing tomatoes in curries throughout the Kokan region. “Solkadhi and kokum saar (juice of kokum) stand out as beloved regional specialties, both featuring kokum as a central ingredient,” said Walke.
Did you know kokum is 100 per cent consumable? “Dried or ripened, seed or fruit, kokum is a hundred percent consumable fruit. All the parts are edible, aromatic, and used as flavourings,” shared Riya Desai, senior dietitian, Wockhardt Hospitals, Mira Road, Mumbai.
Not just a culinary treasure but kokum also has health benefits including a very rich antioxidant profile which helps to fight infections and builds immunity. “Kokum is a natural coolant and hence provides a cooling effect into the body, quenches thirst, and is a great choice during summer to prevent dehydration and risk of heat strokes,” noted Desai, adding that the red fruit also aids digestion and helps to maintain a healthy gut.
Tirphal is another unique spice to Western Ghat which mostly appears as a flavour balancer to fish-like Mackerels or Sardines in the Malvan region, elaborated Walke. “In Goa and Karnataka, it is used in vegetables and dals. We have used it in one of our signature cocktails,” Walke told indianexpress.com.
In recent years, there has been a growing interest in reviving and preserving these traditional recipes. While some chefs are making minor adjustments to suit the modern palate, the essence of the dish remains unchanged. “This is done with great care, ensuring that the authenticity and heritage of the cuisine are preserved,” said Chef Singh.
But gaps remain
Beyond its culinary versatility, kokum boasts health benefits and adaptability. Some opt for kokum butter as a substitute for ghee, while Kokum sherbat provides a popular, refreshing beverage option. “Yet, despite its rich potential, kokum remains a relatively lesser-known ingredient in other parts of India,” described Walke.
In terms of the dishes they make, still not much is known when it comes to the food of the Western Ghats, feels chef Rakesh Raghunathan, who is also a food historian and TV host. “While from the Sangam (ancient) times, the region was bestowed with a variety of rice, millet, and vegetables and fruits like fruits like jackfruit, mangoes, the popularity remains limited to a few pockets,” said Raghunathan.
Quoting the example of how smoked mountain garlic is used for preservation of foods in some pockets of Western Ghats, like Kodaikanal. Raghunathan said: “We know of such these techniques of fermenting, curing, and smoked vegetables from the north east, but the one here remains under explored.”
So, what is being done to promote the region’s cuisine?
Promoting the produce from this region is important to preserve cultural traditions, support local economies, and promote sustainable agriculture, Raghunathan emphasised. “By doing so, we can also help elevate the voices and knowledge of indigenous communities and celebrate their culinary heritage,” added Raghunathan.
Raghunathan, in association with The Kodai Chronicle Trust and Wild Garden Cafe, Amethyst, is hosting ‘Kurinji: Foods of the Western Ghats’ — a two-week food festival until April 19, 2024, at Royapettah, Chennai. The food festival features “mountain foods, especially foods and produce of the Western Ghats”. “It can be inferred that in some places, the recipes are millet intensive. Like, for example, if you look at some of the recipes in the Western Ghats, in the Nilgiris, one can infer that it is very millet-intensive,” said Raghunathan in a conversation with indianexpress.com.
For the unversed, the Nilgiris and Palani Hills are mountain ranges located in the southern Indian states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, known for their rich biodiversity and unique flora and fauna. The produce from this region includes fruits like oranges, bananas, plums, avocados, and tree tomatoes; vegetables like carrots, cauliflower, and beetroots; tea; coffee; and spices like cardamom and pepper.
So, if you’d like to try some dishes from the region, take a look at the list below:
Cauliflower Soup with Local Pavazham Beans — It is a blend of roasted cauliflower with aromatic spices and complemented with local beans;
Nilgiris Mutton Soup — Mutton broth infused with hints of coriander, mint, and aromatic spices, capturing the essence of the Nilgiris region; and Chicken Dumplings in Fresh Turmeric Soup—chicken mince dumplings cooked in a fresh, spiced turmeric broth.
Kodai Buddha Bowl— A vibrant and nourishing bowl featuring fresh produce from the hills like avocados, cherry tomatoes, baby carrots, roasted beetroot, and millets, topped with a tangy plum-based vinaigrette
Roast Chicken Herb Salad — Diced chicken and vegetables in a fresh herb dressing.
Smoked Hill Garlic and Cardamom-Scented Sweet Potato Roundel — Sweet potato roundels infused with the aroma of smoked hill garlic and cardamom
Kodai Banana Churros and Salted Caramel; Nilgiris Trifle Pudding— A pineapple crumple, creamy jackfruit ice cream, and assorted fruits in a spiced sugar syrup; and Masala Chai Tres Leches.
